Getting started with the curb bit – how to successfully adapt your horse to the new bit
It is not without reason that the transition from a bridle to a curb bit should be approached with respect and caution. This is a big step in training your horse and can quickly overwhelm not only your horse. Lessons that were easy up until then suddenly become a challenge. This article is intended to help you make the transition to a bar bit successfully and to help you avoid common mistakes.
Contents:
- Curb bit – what does it look like, how does it work?
- When are we ready? – The curb bit maturity
- Getting used to it – giving the horse time
- From 2 to 4 – Possible rein guides for curb bit and bridle
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Curb bit – what does it look like, how does it work?
A curb bit is an unbroken mouthpiece with a tongue clearance. This can vary in its form. The bar bit has cross-legs on the left and right, which lie outside the horse's mouth. The bridle is attached to the upper bars. The hooks for the chin chain are also attached to these. The chin chain runs in the horse's chin pit and enables the (sometimes enormous) leverage of this bridle. The reins are attached to the lower bars, better known as the bridles. The curb bit is often used with a snaffle bit. It is less often used bare, for example in the higher classes of working equitation.
The curb bit works in three ways:
- Pressure on the mouth towards the rider's hand
- Leverage on the poll via the bridle
- Pressure between mouthpiece and chin chain on lower jaw and chin
The intention of the effect depends on:
- the strength of the rod
- the form and shape of the tongue freedom
- the length of the cross legs or their relationship to each other
- the adjustment of the chin chain
The bar thickness can vary depending on the model and manufacturer. You should adjust the thickness (and width) to suit your horse's anatomical needs and preferences. Some prefer a thinner mouthpiece that takes up less space in the horse's mouth. If you feel that your horse is not comfortable with the model you have chosen, test different thicknesses to find the right one. The snaffle bit also has to be accommodated, which further limits the space available. The width of the bar should be about 0.5 to 1 cm less than the snaffle bit, as it is located in a narrower part of the mouth.
If you have our Bar Bits, How Baroque Curb Bits, Spanish curbs or Pump Bits, blank, we recommend that you choose the usual size - and not smaller! Many customers who weren't quite sure found it helpful to measure their existing dentures. You can then compare the value with the dimensions in the size guide (found on each of our dentures).
The term "tongue freedom" is rather misleading when it comes to the curb bit. The more pronounced the tongue freedom, the sharper the effect. When you take hold of the reins, the position in the mouth changes and the tongue freedom can press on the tongue or against the roof of the mouth. The anatomical features of your horse also play a major role here, and you should take this into account when making your selection. Does it have a thick, rather fleshy tongue and how much space does the roof of the mouth offer?
The length of the suits influences the strength of the leverage. The longer the suit, the more powerful the leverage. Short suits give a more harmless impression, but they are more direct and sometimes even harder.
The most important thing when fastening the curb chain is that it is correctly turned out and adjusted. It sits in the horse's chin pit and should not be too tight, but also not too loose. When the reins are taken, the curb bit should be at a roughly 45° angle to the horse's mouth. To ensure that the chain does not press uncomfortably or if your horse has sensitive skin, a soft curb chain pad or a leather-covered curb chain can be used.
The pairs of reins differ in width and workmanship. The curb rein is narrower and sewn at the end. It is usually equipped with a movable stopper/slider to adjust the reins to a specific length.
The snaffle reins, on the other hand, are usually wider and connected at the ends with the traditional buckle. If you have small hands, try out which reins you can manage without having a space problem.
When are we ready? – The curb bit maturity
Before you start riding your horse with a curb bit, certain conditions should be met. Otherwise, it will quickly mutate into a torture tool that can, in the worst case, cause enormous damage. You should always be aware of this and ask yourself carefully whether you as a team are ready for it.
Here are some pointers to help you get your bearings:
- The basic requirement should be a respectful and thoughtful handling of the horse
- The rider should be familiar with the fastening and effect of the curb bit
- The rider's hand must not be restless or use strong rein aids (sensitive influence)
- The rider should be able to influence the horse independently of the reins using only the seat and in all basic gaits (independent seat)
- The horse must be able to turn away with weight and leg aids
- It must not lean on the rider's hand because it is not yet balanced
- The previous lessons should be successful in good self-carriage with light support on the bridle
- It should already show the first approaches to the assembly
- Looseness, carrying and pushing power should be sufficiently developed
- The horse should be given enough time to get used to the new bit
If you are unsure, it is advisable to consult an experienced trainer before deployment.
Please note that the curb bit is not a tool to solve rideability problems. It is neither used for correction nor as a brake to prevent violent horses from running away. If there are already gaps in basic training, riding with a curb bit will not close them. The horse must have a certain level of mental maturity and trust in the rider. In inexperienced or even rough hands, it can become a hard tool that can cause enormous damage to the horse. In the worst case, the lower jaw can even break.
Getting used to it – giving the horse time
Getting used to the curb bit takes time and patience. One option is to bridle your horse with the curb bit for a few minutes at the grooming area. This way, your horse can get used to the new feeling in its mouth and get used to it. You can repeat this a few times.
As soon as he is a little more familiar with the bit, it is time to start riding. To start with, the curb reins can be set to a certain length with the stopper and placed on the neck. So you will initially only be riding with the snaffle reins. Your four-legged partner must also get used to this new situation while moving. Influencing the reins is a different feeling than before, simply because there is a lot more metal in the mouth.
At this point, a whole arena, large lines and curves are more useful than demanding lessons and then leaving the arena in frustration when they fail. Be aware that the bar bit is not for bending, but for refining riding at the highest level. When used correctly, it helps to show the horse the way to collection and enables very precise aids, especially in high lessons.
You will also have to make a change. One pair of reins will now become two. This means that you have to sort four strands and be able to coordinate them independently of one another. You will quickly realise that this is not so easy. It is also a good idea to work with a qualified trainer at this point.
From 2 to 4 – Possible rein guides for curb bit and bridle
Because the snaffle and curb bit work differently, the reins must also be handled differently. Instead of using both bits with the same contact and method, a distinction must be made here. Especially when pulling on one side, the bar presses on the lower jaw on one side and the upper jaw on the other side at the same time. The horse can become confused, which you should definitely avoid.
This is especially true for today's common split-rein technique. There are two reins in each hand (2:2) and they are normally only separated by one finger. Differentiation is therefore hardly possible and the independent use of the two bits is made more difficult. Often, the curb bit is used when bending with the bridle. In the same way, the bridle reins are used when stopping with the curb bit.
Depending on the different types of guidance, the curb bit works in different ways.
2:2 rein guidance – the modern variant
The crossed rein, the most common form
In the riding arenas, the most common way to lead a horse is with crossed reins. The snaffle rein is held between the ring and little fingers. The curb rein crosses the snaffle rein on the inside from bottom to top and runs between the ring and middle fingers. This way of leading the horse is quite gentle, as the rider's hand is usually tilted downwards when stopping. This puts more pressure on the snaffle bit than on the curb.
Here you can vary the bridle reins by holding them between your middle and index fingers. During a parade there is hardly any pressure on the bar.
The parallel rein
The snaffle reins are picked up as usual. The curb reins are guided into the fist below the little finger. The pairs of reins run parallel and do not cross. This increases the effect of the curb.
There is a variation here too: the bridle reins are led from top to bottom through the fist, the curb reins are led from bottom to top. You should know that with this lead, a parade has a very sharp effect on the curb, but this way you can separate the parade for the bridle and curb.
3:1 rein guidance – the classic variant
If you study the teachings of the old riding masters, you will come across the opinion that an unbroken mouthpiece can only be used correctly if the curb reins are held one-handed (3:1). This position is rarely found in modern riding.
The bridle reins are traditionally held with both hands. The curb reins, however, are held with one hand. The reins are crossed upwards within the bridle reins and come together in a hand of your choice (usually the right hand).
The curb rein of the “curb hand” runs between the ring and middle finger. The second curb rein is guided between the middle and index finger. In this way, one bridle rein and both curb reins run together in one hand and the other bridle rein is in the other hand.
This type of guidance can lead to the horse being collected and straightened up without being used for steering. However, for inexperienced riders, there is a risk that the coordination of the aids will be more difficult and the reins can easily become tangled.
You should choose the reins according to the desired purpose. After all, differentiation is important in order to reach the desired goal.
However, always be aware of the effect the curb bit has on your horse's mouth and the damage that can be caused if it is used incorrectly. Many horses hardly show their discomfort and the small signals they give are easily overlooked. Look closely. Don't assume that your horse is resisting out of reluctance or laziness. Give him time to get to know the new circumstances. Then you will continue to enjoy working together as a team.
Are you still looking for the right equipment? Discover Double Rein Bridles, Bar Bits and broken teeth by Picadera.