Knotted halter – how to tie it correctly & introductory exercises

Ground work is an important part of horse training. This is where the foundations of training are laid and the horse is prepared for riding. Exercises that work well on the ground are easier to implement later in the saddle, as the horse already knows the procedures. 

In this blog post you will find out why working with the rope halter makes sense and which lessons you can practice to get started. 

1. Function and advantages of the knotted halter compared to a stable halter
2. How to put on a rope halter correctly
3. Exercises for getting started with ground work
4. Video on how to tie the knotted halter correctly
   

Function and advantages of the knotted halter compared to a stable halter 

The knotted halter is a training halter which, as the name suggests, consists of several knots. These are located at very specific points on the horse's head: two knots on the side of the noseband, two on the cheekbones and one knot below the cheekbones. Impulses thus arrive directly at the horse's head. This enables more precise communication between horse and rider. Working with the knotted halter is more effective than working with a normal stable halter. The knotted halter has a smaller contact surface and is therefore sharper, as the pressure can be distributed better with a conventional nylon halter. 

Horses are simple. They usually look for the easy way to achieve their goal. It's about rewarding correct behavior with giving in, while the counter-pressure caused by incorrect behavior is unpleasant for the horse. The horse will feel relatively quickly that the tension on its head is easing as soon as it shows the desired behavior. So in order to quickly escape the pressure, it decides to give in. 

The knotted halter is a good solution for influencing the horse in a targeted manner and correcting mistakes more effectively. This way, even young horses, who are often unsure at the beginning and are not yet able to implement the aids very well, can quickly understand what is expected of them. The horse is easier to control, which makes controlled work possible.

It is important that when working with a rope halter only short impulses are given and no long pulling or constant pressure is caused. 

It can also be used as a noseband for experienced riders, among other things. 

How to put on a rope halter correctly

There are many sensitive nerve strands in the horse's face, which is why it is important to ensure that the rope halter fits correctly. It primarily affects the poll and secondarily the nasal bone. If it is fastened too tightly, it can press on the cheekbone and cause very unpleasant pain. If it sits too low, it can impair the horse's breathing because it presses on the flaring area of the nostrils. In the worst case, the sensitive end of the nasal bone can be broken. 

To prevent this, the knotted halter should be fastened two fingers below the cheekbone. The rear strap should not fall behind the jaws. It is also important to ensure that the nose piece is not too tight, but also that there is not too much room. Otherwise, the knotted halter will no longer be able to fulfil its purpose or will slip when pulled from the side, meaning that the knots act on the wrong points. 

Since a knotted halter is made of a knotted rope, it does not have predetermined breaking points like halters with fittings. Therefore, a horse should never be tied up with a knotted halter, as the halter does not normally break. 

Should the horse ever find itself in a tricky situation, it is important that the knotted halter can be opened quickly. 

To do this, the loose end of the headpiece is pulled through the eyelet and then guided forward under the eyelet. The end is then pulled through the loop that has been created. This also ensures that the end of the rope is always pointing backwards and cannot get into the horse's eye. 

Exercises to get you started

In the following section I will show you a few exercises that you can include as a basis for your ground work.

1. Lead correctly

Leading is not always leading. Groundwork is about communicating with the horse using body language. The horse should not just run after the human because the lead rope is being pulled. Ideally, the horse follows out of conviction and voluntarily. 

The correct position for the horse when leading is when it is walking with its head at the height of your shoulder. This way you can see the horse's ears and react quickly if necessary. If the horse is walking behind your shoulder, you remain uncertain about what your horse is actually doing behind you. If the horse is in front of your own shoulder, it could happen that it no longer pays attention to you and sets the pace itself. 

For this exercise, it is also advisable to use a whip, which you can use as an extended arm. The rope should hang loosely between you and your horse. Get into position, i.e. stand upright and tense your body, and start walking with determination. If your horse stops, apply some pressure to the rope and give your horse a little time and the opportunity to react. If it follows you, give in until your horse is back at the height of your shoulder. If it still doesn't want to start walking, you can now indicate that you are using the whip on its hindquarters. The next step would then be to tap it on its hindquarters. 

The signals to the horse are always structured hierarchically. First, the horse is asked for the desired reaction; if this does not occur, it becomes increasingly clear what it is that you want to achieve. 

To simplify things, my trainer always said: First ring the bell, then knock, then kick the door in. This is of course an exaggeration, but it makes two things clear:

1. Increasing the impulses 
   
2. The horse should not have endless attempts to react before the pressure increases one level at a time.

When leading correctly, the first step is to simply start walking, i.e. the command “Come with me, follow me.” The tapping would then be the pull on the halter and the last step would be the use of the whip. In this way, the horse learns to accept the slightest impulses as a command before the pressure becomes more unpleasant. 

Stopping is also done in this way. Ideally, the horse will stop at the height of your shoulder. If it only stops in front of you, correct it by backing up. To do this, make yourself tall in front of your horse and take a step forward towards your horse, so that in the best case scenario it moves backwards. The rope should sag. If this doesn't work, increase the pressure on the knotted halter. Your impulses should go towards the horse's chest. In the last step, take the end of the rope or the whip and touch your horse's chest. As soon as it has taken two or three steps backwards, stop the pressure. Then start running again.

If you repeat this exercise a few times, your horse will stop at the correct height of your shoulder on command. 

2. Front and hindquarters give way

Another exercise is to move the front and hindquarters. Ideally, the horse stays on its front feet during the forehand turn and only moves its hind legs. During the hindhand turn, this is the other way round. This exercise also shows very well whether your horse sees you as the leader.

To encourage the horse to give way to its hindquarters, you can use a whip. The exercise can be done while standing or walking. If you want to do the exercise while standing, walk calmly but firmly towards your horse's hindquarters. At the beginning, you can give a slight lateral impulse via the rope so that your horse is already in the bend and is looking at you. If you walk towards the hindquarters but your horse does not give way to you, you can either give another impulse in your direction with the lead rope and wait until your horse gives way, or you can tap the hindquarters with the whip. As soon as your horse moves its hind feet, stop your aids. You can also do this exercise while walking. Simply make a small arc, which you tighten more and more until your horse has to stop with its front legs and can only give way to the pressure with its hindquarters. It often helps if you walk towards the hindquarters head-on in a slightly crouched position. 

You can of course do this from the left or right side. The exercise is perfectly performed when the inner front leg always stays still and the other three legs go around it. 

When turning on its hindquarters, the horse's forequarters must give way and the hindquarters remain stationary. This exercise can be easier for the horse to perform while it is moving. You position yourself again in your leading position at neck level and run a volte from a walk. You now make this smaller and smaller until your horse has to cross its front legs to give way to your request. You can make it easier for your horse by turning towards your horse so that you are looking straight at the horse's neck. Make yourself tall and take a step towards your horse. If it is not yet giving way, you can touch its shoulder to signal that it should cross its front leg. In the last step, use your whip and tap the shoulder. At the beginning it is enough if your horse crosses its front leg and you adjust the pressure. In this exercise the horse has to shift its weight onto its hind legs in order to be able to move its front leg freely over the other. Since horses naturally have a better and a worse side, the exercise will probably work better on one side than the other. However, this can be improved and balanced through training. 

If you repeat this exercise often, your horse will react at the first impulse: running towards the forehand. 

3. Lateral movements by hand

Before lateral movements can work properly under the saddle, the horse must first be introduced to the task from the ground. Here, too, it is best to use a whip, because this time you have to work on the forehand and hindquarters at the same time. 

To make the task as easy as possible for your horse, you can use the arena barrier or another barrier. Position your horse so that its head is in front of the barrier. This will prevent your horse from moving forward and evading the task. Stand at the same height as your horse's middle, with the rope in your left hand and the whip in your right hand. Walk towards your horse head-on, border the left side with the rope to symbolise the outside rein, and touch your horse with the whip at the level of the flank. As soon as your horse starts to cross its legs, relax again. On the right side, of course, do the whole thing the other way around. Pull the lead rope a little with your right hand while holding the whip with your left hand. 

Little by little, you will be able to reduce the aids more and more. Once your horse has understood the principle, you can continue the exercise by standing in front of your horse, holding the lead rope in the desired direction with one hand and the whip just hovering at the side of the horse's belly. So you only show him the way and your horse will convert the signals into the steps to be carried out by itself, while you just have to run along with him. 

Practice makes perfect

Groundwork is a training that needs to be refreshed again and again. There are many different exercises that can make everyday life more varied. You can also correct small mistakes from the ground that you might not notice on the horse. The knotted halter is a practical tool here, as it can pass on specific impulses to the horse. During groundwork, you often discover new facets of your horse and can get to know its behavior even better. A basis can be created that can make riding and dealing with the horse easier.

Video on how to tie the knotted halter correctly

If the description wasn't clear enough, just watch our YouTube video where we demonstrate how to put the rope halter on your horse.

Here you will find a great selection of products that are suitable for ground work: